Views from the Lodge

The Lodge

The Road to Penitentes

Chocolate River

Arrived in Penitenes (2500m)

Penitentes

It’s nearly time to swap cars for mules, shoes for mountaineering boots and my iPad for a map…because tomorrow we start the expedition!

The journey between Mendoza and Penitentes was spectacular. We had great views of the surrounding peaks and huge glacier valleys but we still have not set eyes on Aconcagua.

The weather here in Penitentes is clear and sunny if not a little hot ~29c (Even at 2500m).

Sorting the Dried Food

We have checked the equipment (tents, cooking gear, first aid), selected our dried meals and packed our day packs as light as possible. For the first 4 days the mules will carry the heavier equipment (crampons, sleeping bags and axe etc) then when we get to base camp (Plaza Argentinas) we will switch to the 70ltr expedition packs to shuttle heavy loads up the mountain to the high camps.

Now it’s time to get some rest at the lodge before we get our expedition to complete a full traverse of Aconcagua underway.

The Route

Our Route Starts Bottom Right

At 10:00 on Christmas Eve we will transfer from Mendoza to Penitentes. The journey will take approximately 3 hours by road and we will overnight in the guide’s lodge. On Christmas Day we will start our trek from Punta de Vacas travelling up the Vacas Valley on foot for 5 hours until we reach our overnight camp at Pampa de Lenas (2,800m). Upon arrival we will complete our first medical assessment with the park rangers. This is a mandatory requirement for Aconcagua but this is somewhat unique among high altitude climbs (not mandated in Alps, Himalayas or on Kilimanjaro). On Boxing Day we will continue our trek to Casa de Piedra (3,200m). This will take us approximately 7 hours due to the distance of the leg . Then on December 27th we will complete the third and final trekking section with the destination of Base Camp at Plaza Argentina (4,200m). Upon arrival or on the following day will complete the second medical assessment before being permitted to continue the climb.

Details of the summit legs will follow.

Permits Aquired

$930 + Signed Waiver = Permit

We have spent the morning purchasing some minor items of equipment, food items and completing the permit application process. All set now to start the expedition. The afternoon is open to complete packing. We depart for Penitentes at 10:00 Tuesday.

Waiver Form (If you die it’s your fault)

Shamin with Visa in Hand

99% Ready, 1% Christmas

Arrived in Mendoza

The Final Flight to Mendoza

I have arrived safely in Mendoza (760m) after a 34 hour journey via London, Miami and Santiago. All flights were on schedule and no issues with customs, baggage or connections.

There was another member of the expedition team, Kevin Robertson (UK) onboard the plane from Heathrow but we did not meet each other until we spotted the Adventure Peaks logos on our kit bags at the baggage carousel in Miami. It was good to meet and get to know each other during the layover periods between flights.

The flight between Santiago and Mendoza offered some amazing views of the Andes mountain range. Unfortunately Aconcagua’s summit was shrouded in cloud and was not visible.

View from the Plane

Another View from the Plane

We (Myself and Kevin) were greeted by our local mountains guides Mauricio Moreno and Maria Ines Guevara (Husband and Wife) and arrived at the hotel around 15:00. We took the opportunity to unpack and prepare the equipment for inspection at 09:00 the following morning. In addition we did a quick run to the local supermarket for water and other supplies.

Later in the afternoon we met up with Shamin Asaikar (India) who had flown in from New Delhi on a 46 hour monster journey via Dubai, Rio and finally Mendoza (with zero sleep). The final member of the team John Newsom (UK) arrived at the hotel around 21:00. Fair play to both for joining us for dinner on the first night!

I also had the pleasure of starting my DIAMOX medication to help manage the side effects of altitude. I’ll be on the medication between now (start -2 days) through to 2 days after we start our decent.

Chopping the DIAMOX

Tomorrow will be a fairly easy day…first the equipment inspection, then some food shopping and finally preparing the packs for the start of the expedition on Tuesday. One 35ltr pack for trekking and another larger kit bag for my mule.

But for now…it’s dinner time (lots of meat).

Let the Expedition Begin!

Hold & Cabin Baggage

Another year of work complete…but this year instead of relaxing for 10 days in a pair of slippers and eating 6,000 calories of chocolate and turkey per day…it is time for me to hit the highest peak outside of the Himilayas for the second test, Aconcagua (6962m).

The kit is checked, packed and I am currently on the way to Manchester Airport. I begin the journey to Argentina at 07:20 on Saturday morning.

I have a 28 hour journey ahead of me (Manchester > Heathrow > Miami > Santiago > Mendoza). I arrive around mid-afternoon on Sunday. Monday (23rd) will be spent organising the climbing permits and preparing the expedition equipment (food & tents etc). On Christmas Eve (24th) we will transfer to Penitentes by road and then on Christmas Day (25th) we being the trek towards base camp with the first night to be spent at Pampa de Lenas.

The next section is for people that appreciate organised stuff…

OCD Heaven…lists, labelling and organising kit

From back left: 120ltr kit bag; 70ltr expedition pack, 35ltr day pack, dry bags x2, 5 season sleeping bag, B3 mountaineering boots, trail running shoes, crocs (for river crossing), walking socks of various weights, ski goggles, cat 4 sun glasses, waist pack, Thermarest mattress, down mittens, winter gloves, thin liner gloves x2, 1ltr water bottles x2, water bottle holder, carabiners, crampons, trekking poles, mountaineering axe, down jacket, waterproof jacket, waterproof trousers, towel, wet wipes, first aid kit, head torch, travel adapters, hand warmer, small items kit boxes (knife, sunscreen, water purification tablets, compass, crampon spares, spare laces, travel wash, knife & spork, and batteries, tape, cable ties, needles&thread, Go-Pro spares), map, mid-weight down jacket, sun hats, cold weather hats, buff, balaclava, travel wallet, energy bars, chocolate, walking pants, base layers, casual clothes, camera, Go-Pro, iPad and solar charger.

More to come over the next few days!

10 Day To Go!

Emergency Drugs

Prescription Meds

This week I have been completing the preparations for the Aconcagua expedition…today I picked up the prescription meds. The brown bottle (Acetazolamide or Diamox) is for treating Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), the red box at the back (Ciprofloxacin) is for treating stomach infections, the blue box (Nifedipine) is for treating Pulmonary Oedema (fluid on the lungs) and the remaining red box on the right (Dexmethasone) is for treating Cerebral Oedema (fluid on the brain).

In my GP’s own words ‘these are some pretty serious drugs‘ and it took some time to convince him to issue them given that I had no medical need for them at the time of the consultation. With the exception of Diamox which can be used to reduce the effects of altitude and halve acclimatisation time, I hope I will never have to use the other meds. They remain a mandatory carry item due to the risks, severity of the possible medical scenarios and the fact that we will be in a very remote location.

The new meds have been added to a growing first aid kit that already contains my vitamins, pain killers, plasters, compeed and stomach medication.

First Aid kit Contents

The Most Expensive Lilo

Well I lie-lo’d to you…this is not actually a lilo…it’s a Therm-A-Rest NeoAir Xlite…the bad news is that this will serve as my bed for 21 days on the mountain Argentina.